(Finally) confirmed: Margiela no longer @ Margiela

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Was it the clothes themselves or the fact that Rihanna just attended Margiela's spring show that prompted Renzo Rosso to finally admit that the man behind the label was no longer designing behind-the-scenes?

Margiela, a notorious recluse, after all, hardly seems likely to conform to celebrity outreach.

People had been speculating for months that Margiela left the label over creative strife with stakeholder Rosso after the Maison's critically disappointing fall showing.

But if it weren't apparent enough in last season's collection, it would have been hard to hide this season. Under a new team Rosso describes as 'young, realistic', the spring/summer '10 collection revealed obvious transition. One that Suxy Menkes decided 'tragic'.

While the bubblegum wrapper ensemble and crumpled Ibiza postcard were indeed a little 'tragic', I can't say it was all bad.

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It is a team, after all, likely cultivated by Margiela himself, and as someone who has always stressed the combined recognition of the 'Maison' - it seems a little irresponsible to quickly brush it off as irrelevant.

These three looks below, for instance, I would not imagine out of place in a Martin Margiela-directed collection.

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Maybe the house just needs a new creative head... Haider Ackermann? Raf Simons?

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Rihanna front-row

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