Q&A with Alexandra Verschueren
The name Alexandra Verschueren may not resonate now, but as the latest recipient of the Antwerp Academy's grand jury prize and Flanders Fashion Institute (FFI) award, two honours also bestowed recently on Peter Pilotto, she may be one to watch in the years to come.
Her graduate collection, aptly titled 'Medium', was inspired by the medium of paper, a material she used literally in some designs and skillfully constructed into origamic structures, while rendering the mould of more conventional materials in other designs.
Not only was the international jury panel including Olivier Theyskens and Suzy Menkes impressed, but also the local Fashion Museum of Antwerp (MoMu). As the recipient of the MoMu Award, Alexandra has the opportunity now to present her collection in an exhibition until October 25th.
I sat down with Alexandra shortly after these recent accolades, and tried to delve into the psyche of a designer on the rise.
1. Inspiration
Q. Are there any designers that you are inspired by?
A. Not really. I try not to look around too much when I’m designing. It can be confusing, and you start drawing similar things.
I prefer to really focus on my own inspiration source, and try to give that concept shape.
Q. If not 'inspired', are there designers who you look up to? Do you have a favourite?
A. Of course I look up to a lot of designers. Too many to name I think.
I like Sandra Backlund, for bringing us innovative knitwear, and doing it all by herself. I like Prada, Miu Miu, Hussein Chalayan, Margiela - but also other young designers like Gareth Pugh, for doing his own thing, Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Christian Wijnants, …
But of all those designers, I must say I look up to Dries Van Noten the most. He just seems a really humble person, and he really makes the most amazing garments. While a lot of fashion houses go with the hype, he really stays true to his own sense of style and unique vision. Above that, you can really see the people working for him are all enjoying it. I think he has done something remarkable with his brand.
Q. What is your wildest dream? Start your own line? Head up a large fashion empire? Work for/under someone in particular?
A. For now, I just first want to experience what it is to work in the fashion business. I don’t really know what to expect yet. So it will be nice to get some inside scoops. After doing some internships, I would love to be able to start something up on my own. But that isn’t a priority now.
Now, my wildest dream would be to work for Dries Van Noten. A bit cliché maybe since I am from Antwerp, but that really would be a dream come true.
2. The Antwerp Academy
Q. What, in your opinion, makes the Antwerp school different from others? Say, Parsons, Central Saint Martins, etc.?
A. Well, I don’t really know if there’s such a big difference.
I just think that what sets Antwerp apart from all the above is the fact that they try to give you a really broad education (we learn everything from draping, to pattern making, to design, to putting on shows, to stitching, to print making). While other schools really focus on one particular subject like design, but then you don’t do prints, for example. Or we really have the freedom to explore between men’s and women’s collections. We can choose men’s one year, women’s the next, or even kid’s wear. Or a mix of it all.
What’s also of big importance is that we really get individually taught by really good, experienced teachers, who are known for being very progressive. They really try to help students develop strong unique visions. They don’t force us to think commercially (we’ll have to do that enough later) and I think that is a really strong point.
It’s always possible and much easier to reduce a concept to something wearable, and that way you make your garment much more interesting than just thinking if it will sell or not, if it will look nice or not… You make the garment something beautiful, by putting your passion and ideas in it.
Q. What was it like being taught by, well, legends? The original 'Antwerp 6'?
A. It was intimidating at first, since you know they have a whole lot of experience in their field, and quite extreme visions of what fashion should be. But once you get over that, you feel really fortunate and privileged to be taught by them and get advice from them on a day-to-day basis.
Q. Do 'hypes' develop around certain students throughout the course? For example, Peter Pilotto is a very recent, big success.
A. Sometimes it’s quite obvious which students teachers prefer, but the real hype starts when people graduate and do something on their own, or when students venture out on their own (I heard one of the first-year students this year, won Hyères already).
Q. What are some of the more interesting opportunities you have seen the students before you presented?
A. For example, Peter Pilotto and Christian Wijnants have set up their own successful lines. But you also have Meryll Rogge, who’s working as an assistant designer for Marc Jacobs (she didn’t finish her final year, because of this amazing opportunity).
There’s also Heaven Tanudiredja, who’s worked with Dries Van Noten on his jewellery line, and now has set up his own line that he sells to Barneys or Henri Bendel in New York…And that is worn by the likes of Beth Ditto.
You also have other students who go more into the art direction. For example, Andrea Cammarosano, who’s now showing a collection at the Arnhem Mode Biennale.
3. Antwerp, the city
Q. What is it about Antwerp that inspires you?
A. I just like it here, since it’s close to everything. You feel connected to a lot of different places. The atmosphere is also nice. It’s a city, but at the same time it’s not too big, but it isn’t boring. I always miss it when I’m gone. But that maybe also has to do with the fact that my family, my friends, and last but not least my boyfriend live here.
Q. Will you stay in Antwerp?
A. I think I will try to go abroad for a couple of months, or even a year. But I think I’ll always come back to Antwerp. This is where I see myself working or just being in the future.
Q. In my opinion, there is no unifying Antwerp 'aesthetic', if you will - but more an attitude towards non-conformity and personal identity. Do you agree or what is your opinion?
A. I agree.
‘Medium’ is on exhibit at the ModeMuseum until October 25th
Nationalestraat 28
2000 Antwerp
